Caring for African American Hair

Oooh, isn’t he cute!! Love this boy. We adopted Sawyer 2 and a half years ago. It was one of the neatest experiences we have ever had. We were fortunate to meet his amazing birth mom, and bring him home from the hospital to meet his new family. We have been so blessed to have him in our family and I know he is supposed to be with us.

Now I realize everyone’s skin and hair are different, and what I suggest may not work for everyone. I’m just telling you what has worked for us, and hopefully along the way I’ll give you a few pointers.

Black hair is extremely fragile. A gentle touch is required to avoid unnecessary breakage and hair loss. Therefore, always use a wide tooth comb or pick when combing the hair. Avoid fine tooth combs as they snag and pull out curly/kinky hair. Invest in a quality brush; natural boar brushes are the best.

Curly/kinky hair needs moisture, moisture, and more moisture! Consider this when purchasing hair care products. Avoid drying products such as hair spray, mousse, holding gels, etc. Opt for moisturizers, leave in conditioners, and styling lotions. (When we brought Sawyer home, people told us to use baby oil which I DON’T suggest- it gets everything super greasy and left oil spots everywhere!)

All products are not created equal. Just because a product claims to be created for “curly hair” doesn’t guarantee that it will be suitable for ethnic curly hair. Products created for Nicole Kidman’s curly hair may not work for Angela Bassett’s. Caucasian hair tends to produce more sebum (oily secretion created by the sebaceous gland) than Black textured hair; therefore, Black hair requires more oil. Read, no, scrutinize the ingredient list. Look for natural oils and quality ingredients. Remember, the ingredients are listed in order of volume.

*Do not use products that contain mineral oil or petrolatum. Both of these cheap oils clog pores, rob the hair’s moisture and can retard hair growth. 

Natural oils are the best bet. Jojoba and coconut oil are great conditioning oils. Shea butter is an excellent moisturizer. Pomegranate seed oil is my personal favorite.

Make sure you have the necessary tools.

Wide tooth comb or pick, the wider the better
Natural bristle brush
Hydrating shampoo
Moisturizing conditioner
A daily moisturizer
Natural oils
Cream hair dressing for light control of frizzes
Elastics for securing ponytails

Speaking of elastics and ponytails, here are a few pointers to avoid disaster…

Do not use rubber bands to secure her pony tails, instead use elastics and covered bands.
Rubber bands can break and damage. (Have you ever used them on YOUR hair? They hurt!)
Remove pony tail holders before bed time.
Make sure you braid or twist the hair completely- all the way to the ends.
Add a coat of leave in conditioner to the ends before braiding for extra protection.


The most common mistakes in doing black hair are:

Over shampooing-
Black hair should not be shampooed every day, or every other day for that matter. Instead, shampoo your child’s hair every 3-5 days. I know this may confuse those who shampoo daily; however, you must remember that Black hair needs oil, and because it distributes less sebum, frequent shampooing can dry out the hair and scalp.
Tip for getting through “shampoo-less” days:
Rinse hair with warm water, apply conditioner, and rinse well. This will give you a clean start and provide added conditioning and moisture without stripping away protective oils. (It’s just like no-pooing!)

Under conditioning
Proper conditioning is one of the most important steps for healthy hair. Unfortunately, most do not take the time to adequately do so. I recommend giving your child a deep conditioning (with heat) once a month, especially during the winter season.

For boys…. the easiest “do” is to shave it (or cut it real short)! We just shaved Sawyers hair for the first time last week and it’s adorable!